West Coast Trail Map – Day 3.

Cool temperatures, cloud & fog, combined with the prospect of the longest day of the trail, helped speed us through the process of breaking camp. Not as fast as we’d hoped though, and it was 8am when we headed off on the beach to Tsusiat Point.

Mist & Waves at Tsusiat Point.

The beach sand was freshly ‘groomed’ and made for a swift passage, however as we approached the first headland, we were welcomed with an awful stench!

Dead Sea Lion.

We hurried up-wind, only to be greeted by another decomposing carcase – this time it was a tiny though perfectly-formed shark!

Examining more dead stuff…

The waves were crashing over Tsusiat Point, and swirling through the tunnel that was our intended route! We observed the rhythm of the waves for a while and then Kelly & Abi scooted through, clambering onto a rock shelf, to avoid getting soaked. While they watched the wave action from one side and I from the other, Sarah whipped through the tunnel and up on to the ledge. Then we paused for photos!

Sarah at Tsusiat Point.

The trail returned to the forest at Km-29. We soon entered an Indian Reserve and were able to appreciate some old-growth forest, for the first time on the trail.

We stopped at a creek spilling from Tsuquadra Lake, and filled our water bottles with the filter-pump.

Abi fills her water bottle.

The trail took us high along the shoreline cliffs, and though grey, the views were nonetheless dramatic.

We arrived at the Nitinat narrows, and for some unknown reason had to wait for 40 minutes for the ferry.

Giffin & Frances – first in line for the ferry.

Giffin & Frances and Tarek & Lisa (2 couples we became friends with) were also waiting for the ferry. We clambered aboard and to our amazement; the ride was over – almost before it began. 30 seconds is probably an over exaggeration for the duration of the ride!

The dock where the ferry landed was home to a crab / salmon shack and since food was a prime motivator on this trip, we bought 3 salmon plates and 5 beers ($105). The food was for the kids, however Sarah & I sampled a little before heading off on the trail ahead of the kids.

Salmon – Nitinat style!

The trail continued in the forest, serving up its usual variety of roots, mud and rotting board-walks.

Sarah navigates the roots.

Finally things became easier when we crossed the Cheewhat River suspension bridge, and then were able to get back on to the beach.

Sarah on the Cheewhat River Bridge

We pushed ahead, knowing that we would have to leave the beach for a brief while, to get around the impassable Dare Point, however for some strange reason we couldn’t get to the beach access noted on the map at Km-38. The waves were washing up onto the headland rocks and although turning back was not a pleasant thing to do, it was certainly the wisest course of action.

Having now added a couple of Kms to what was already going to be a 17Km day, we trudged on. The distance was taking a toll on Sarah’s hip, and despite MUCH resistance, I insisted on taking her pack for the last 4Kms.

Piggy Back Back-Pack.

We arrived at the Cribs Creek campsite at 8pm and thankfully the kids had set up camp and started a fire going. Supper & bed happened in very short order. We were all glad to have that gruelling day behind us.